Kinley Plateau

The Kinley Plateau occupies 16,900 acres of hilly terrain in the Dakota Prairie Grasslands, with elevations ranging from lowland valleys to the plateau's crest at 2,884 feet. Named features—Kinley Plateau, Toms Butte, Hanley Plateau, and Cliffs Plateau—define the topography. Water moves through this landscape via Bear Creek, which originates in the headwaters here, along with Dantz Creek, Hanley Wash, Hops Wash, and Whites Wash. These drainages carve through the plateaus and support distinct riparian communities that contrast sharply with the surrounding uplands.

The vegetation reflects a gradient from wet to dry. In the draws and along watercourses, Plains Cottonwood Riparian Woodland and Green Ash / Chokecherry Woody Draw communities establish themselves, with green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica), chokecherry (Prunus virginiana), and wild plum (Prunus americana) forming a woody structure that stabilizes streambanks and provides shelter. Moving upslope, the landscape transitions to shrublands: Silver Sagebrush / Western Wheatgrass Shrubland occupies intermediate elevations, while Big Sagebrush / Western Wheatgrass Shrubland dominates drier sites. Rocky Mountain Juniper / Little Ricegrass Woodland appears on rocky slopes, with creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) forming a low, open canopy. The highest and most exposed areas support Western Mixed-Grass/Short-grass Prairie, where blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis) and western wheatgrass (Pascopyrum smithii) prevail, interspersed with silver buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea), prairie rose (Rosa arkansana), and narrow-leaved purple coneflower (Echinacea angustifolia).

Wildlife communities reflect these habitat divisions. The federally endangered whooping crane uses the open grasslands and draws. Bighorn sheep move across rocky terrain and juniper woodlands. Mule deer browse the shrublands and woody draws, while coyotes hunt across all elevations. Golden eagles soar above the plateaus, hunting prairie rattlesnakes (Crotalus viridis) and greater short-horned lizards in the open grasslands. Sharp-tailed grouse depend on the mixed-grass prairie for breeding and foraging. The federally endangered northern long-eared bat hunts insects above the woody draws at dusk. Suckley's cuckoo bumble bee, proposed for federal endangered status, pollinates the narrow-leaved purple coneflower and other forbs in the prairie and shrubland. The monarch butterfly and western regal fritillary, both proposed for federal threatened status, migrate through and breed on the flowering plants of the grasslands and shrublands.

Walking the landscape, a visitor experiences distinct transitions. Following a trail through the juniper woodland, the canopy opens gradually onto ridgelines where the view extends across the plateaus. Descending into a draw toward Bear Creek or Dantz Creek, the air cools and the sound of water becomes audible before the stream appears. The understory thickens with chokecherry and wild plum, and the light dims beneath the cottonwoods and ash. Climbing back out onto the exposed plateau, the woody cover falls away abruptly, and the grassland opens—the wind audible in the grasses, the horizon distant. The shift from the dark, moist draw to the bright, dry ridge happens within a few hundred vertical feet, and the change in what grows, what lives, and what the air feels like is immediate and complete.

Indigenous nations—the Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara, and later the Lakota (Hunkpapa and Sihasapa bands) and Yanktonai—used this region for hunting, trapping, and the procurement of stone tools. The area was a primary hunting ground for bison, the central food and cultural resource for these peoples. Indigenous men traveled to the high bluffs of the Little Missouri River for eagle trapping, and tribes procured stone for tools from the Knife River flint quarries and other nearby sources. The region participated in vast inter-tribal trade networks. Under the 1851 Treaty of Fort Laramie, the Kinley Plateau fell within territory recognized as Mandan, Hidatsa, and Arikara land, encompassing approximately 12.5 million acres before being significantly reduced by subsequent executive orders and acts.

In August 1864, General Alfred Sully's troops fought a coalition of Lakota, Yanktonai, and Dakota Sioux at the Battle of Killdeer Mountain and in subsequent skirmishes in the Badlands. In May 1876, General George Custer and the 7th Cavalry traversed the broader region and camped nearby at "Custer Snow Camp" following a late-season blizzard that delayed their march toward the Battle of the Little Bighorn.

Following the Indian Wars, the lands that now comprise the Kinley Plateau were acquired under the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act of 1937, which authorized the federal government to purchase "submarginal" farmlands to combat the effects of the Dust Bowl and restore them to productive use. The Dakota Prairie Grasslands was officially established as a separate administrative unit of the U.S. Forest Service in 1998 by order of the Chief of the Forest Service, consolidating management of four National Grasslands across North Dakota and South Dakota.

Under the 2001/2002 Land and Resource Management Plan, the Kinley Plateau was designated as "Suitable for Wilderness." This designation reflects the area's lack of roads and industrial infrastructure, distinguishing it from surrounding lands where oil and gas development occurs along its northern and southern boundaries.

Vital Resources Protected

Headwater Integrity and Native Grassland Hydrology

The Kinley Plateau contains the headwaters of Bear Creek and Dantz Creek, which drain the Little Missouri River basin. These creeks carved the plateau's distinctive topography over millennia and remain the hydrological foundation of the area's ecosystems. Road construction would fragment these drainage networks through culverts and fill, disrupting the natural flow patterns that sustain the Plains Cottonwood Riparian Woodland and the Green Ash/Chokecherry Woody Draw—the only woody vegetation in this grassland landscape. These riparian corridors depend on uninterrupted water movement; fragmentation would reduce water availability to the trees that provide thermal cover and nesting habitat for multiple federally endangered species.

Unfragmented Habitat for Federally Endangered Species

The Kinley Plateau supports populations of Northern Long-Eared Bat (Myotis septentrionalis, federally endangered) and Whooping Crane (Grus americana, federally endangered), along with Suckley's Cuckoo Bumble Bee (Bombus suckleyi, proposed endangered) and Western Regal Fritillary (Argynnis idalia occidentalis, proposed threatened). These species depend on the area's roadless character—the bats require continuous woody draw habitat for roosting and foraging, while whooping cranes and pollinators require unbroken grassland and flowering plant communities. Road construction creates edge effects that fragment these habitats into isolated patches too small to support viable populations. Once fragmented, these grassland and woodland mosaics cannot be reassembled; the spatial connectivity that took millennia to establish would be permanently lost.

Bighorn Sheep Population Stronghold

The Kinley Plateau is documented as a stronghold for bighorn sheep in North Dakota, a species vulnerable to habitat fragmentation and disease transmission. The area's roadless condition maintains the continuous, undisturbed terrain these animals require for movement and refuge. Road construction would introduce human presence and vehicle traffic that increase stress on the population and create barriers to movement between seasonal ranges. Bighorn sheep populations are slow to recover from fragmentation; once divided, subpopulations become isolated and genetically vulnerable.

Native Prairie and Shrubland Resilience to Climate Stress

The Kinley Plateau's Western Mixed-Grass and Short-grass Prairie, Silver Sagebrush/Western Wheatgrass Shrubland, and Big Sagebrush/Western Wheatgrass Shrubland ecosystems are increasingly vulnerable to extreme drought and shifting precipitation patterns. The area's roadless condition allows these plant communities to respond to climate variability without the additional stress of soil compaction, erosion, and altered hydrology caused by roads. The woody draws—Green Ash/Chokecherry and Rocky Mountain Juniper/Little Ricegrass communities—provide climate refugia for wildlife during drought. Road construction would degrade these refugia through canopy removal and soil disturbance, reducing their capacity to buffer wildlife populations against climate extremes.

Threats from Road Construction

Sedimentation and Stream Temperature Increase in Headwater Drainages

Road construction on the Kinley Plateau's hilly terrain would require extensive cut slopes and fill in the Bear Creek and Dantz Creek headwaters. Exposed soil on cut slopes erodes during precipitation events, delivering sediment directly into these creeks. Sediment smothers the spawning substrate and reduces light penetration, degrading habitat for aquatic invertebrates that form the base of the food web for Whooping Cranes and other waterbirds. Simultaneously, removal of riparian vegetation (Green Ash and Chokecherry) to accommodate roads eliminates the canopy shade that keeps headwater streams cool. Elevated water temperatures reduce dissolved oxygen and stress cold-water-dependent species. These impacts are particularly severe in headwater systems because they affect water quality throughout the entire downstream drainage—the Little Missouri River basin—and cannot be mitigated by restoration downstream.

Habitat Fragmentation and Edge Effects for Federally Endangered Species

Road construction would divide the Kinley Plateau's grassland and woody draw habitat into isolated patches separated by the road corridor itself and the edge effects it creates. Northern Long-Eared Bats require continuous woody habitat for foraging and roosting; fragmentation reduces the area of suitable habitat below the threshold needed to support a viable population. Whooping Cranes and Suckley's Cuckoo Bumble Bee depend on unbroken grassland and flowering plant communities; roads create barriers to movement and reduce the total area of contiguous habitat available. Edge effects—increased light, wind, and temperature fluctuations along the road margin—favor invasive species like leafy spurge and crested wheatgrass, which outcompete native wildflowers that pollinators and cranes depend on. Fragmentation of grassland habitat is effectively irreversible; reconnecting isolated patches requires decades of active restoration and is often unsuccessful in semi-arid environments.

Invasive Species Establishment and Spread via Road Corridors

Road construction creates disturbed soil and a linear corridor of human activity that serves as a vector for invasive species. Leafy spurge and crested wheatgrass, already documented as significant threats in the Dakota Prairie Grasslands, would establish along the road margin and spread into adjacent native prairie and shrubland. These invasives outcompete native wildflowers and grasses, degrading forage quality for Monarch Butterfly (Danaus plexippus, proposed threatened) caterpillars and reducing the flowering plant diversity that Suckley's Cuckoo Bumble Bee requires. Once established, invasive species are extremely difficult to control in grassland ecosystems; eradication typically requires repeated herbicide applications or intensive management that further degrades habitat. The road corridor would become a permanent source of invasive propagules, continuously reinfecting the surrounding landscape.

Hydrological Disruption and Woody Draw Degradation

Road construction on the Kinley Plateau would require fill and drainage infrastructure to manage water runoff, disrupting the natural hydrology that sustains the Green Ash/Chokecherry Woody Draw and Rocky Mountain Juniper/Little Ricegrass Woodland. These woody communities depend on seepage from the plateau's subsurface water flow; roads and their associated drainage systems alter groundwater movement, reducing water availability to trees. Reduced water availability, combined with climate-induced drought stress already documented in the region, would cause woody draw decline and loss of the thermal cover and nesting habitat that Northern Long-Eared Bats and other wildlife depend on. Woody draws in semi-arid grasslands recover extremely slowly once degraded; restoration timescales exceed 50 years and often fail due to continued drought stress.

Kinley Plateau offers 16,900 acres of roadless mixed-grass prairie, badlands, and juniper woodland in the Dakota Prairie Grasslands. The area's recreation value depends entirely on its roadless condition—all activities here rely on foot or horseback access, which would be compromised if roads were constructed through the interior.

Hiking and Mountain Biking

The Maah Daah Hey Trail (7001) is the primary access route, a 144-mile single-track system connecting Theodore Roosevelt National Park's North and South Units. The section through Kinley Plateau spans 28.2 miles and is rated moderate overall, though the plateau itself features relatively gentle slopes with only about 400 feet of elevation gain. The trail crosses rolling mixed-grass prairie and juniper-forested slopes, with Tom's Wash serving as the main access point approximately 17 miles south of Medora via East River Road. Coal Creek Campground, located 12 miles south of Medora, provides another trailhead and offers seasonal water (May through November). The Bear Creek Trail (7018) provides a short 0.2-mile option near the campground. Both trails are single-track with imported compacted material surfaces; in wet conditions, the clay-based mudstone becomes impassable. Non-motorized use only—no e-bikes, ATVs, or motorcycles. The Maah Daah Hey 100 mountain bike race utilizes this trail system, drawing competitors to the contiguous single-track through the National Grasslands.

Hunting

Kinley Plateau is managed for primitive, non-motorized hunting that depends on foot or horseback access. The area supports mule deer, white-tailed deer, elk, pronghorn, and bighorn sheep for big game; sharp-tailed grouse, Hungarian partridge, and wild turkey for upland birds; and coyote and prairie dogs for year-round hunting. Sharp-tailed grouse season typically runs mid-September through early January with a daily bag limit of three. Deer seasons (archery, gun, and muzzleloader) are governed by North Dakota Game and Fish Department regulations; specific units require lottery licenses. Hunting over bait is prohibited on National Forest System lands. Tree stands and blinds may be placed no earlier than August 20 and must be removed by January 31, with owner identification required. The terrain—described as the "heart of the Badlands" with rolling hills and shin-to-knee-high grass mixed with shrubby draws—provides vantage points for glassing game and prime habitat for sharp-tailed grouse. Access is limited to the area's perimeter by Forest Service and county roads; hunters enter on foot or horseback from valleys including Dantz Creek, Bear Creek, and Toms Wash. This primitive hunting experience is only possible because the interior remains roadless and free from motorized disturbance.

Birding

The plateau and surrounding badlands support raptors including golden eagles, bald eagles, prairie falcons, northern harriers, and hawks, which nest on the sandstone cliffs and edges. Grassland species include sharp-tailed grouse, long-billed curlews, short-eared owls, and burrowing owls. Songbirds documented in the area include western meadowlarks, say's phoebes, rock wrens, mountain bluebirds, yellow-breasted chats, spotted towhees, and sparrows (grasshopper, lark, vesper, and Baird's). The nearby Ponderosa Pine unit within the National Grassland is the only known nesting area in North Dakota for Audubon's warbler. Spring and summer offer the best viewing of breeding birds and active calls. The area lies within the Central Flyway, making it a stopover for migrating waterfowl, shorebirds, and cranes. Winter brings rough-legged hawks and occasionally snowy owls to the open prairies. The Maah Daah Hey Trail provides hiking access through badlands, woody draws, and mixed-grass prairie. Kinley Plateau at 2,884 feet offers elevated vantage points for observing soaring raptors. Birding here depends on non-motorized backcountry access; roads would fragment habitat and introduce noise that disrupts bird activity and breeding.

Photography

The plateau's western flank drops steeply over a tumultuous landscape of exposed sediment layers in shades of blue, gray, white, and red. The summit provides steady views across rolling prairie toward Bullion Butte a few miles west. Rocky Mountain juniper trees appear in deep, moss-floored forests or twisted and stunted atop giant sandstone cap-rocks—distinctive subjects for landscape and botanical photography. Seasonal wildflowers bloom across prairie, butte, and woody draw habitats. Bighorn sheep are a documented stronghold in the area, offering opportunities to photograph this species in undisturbed habitat. Other wildlife subjects include mule deer, elk, pronghorn, bobcat, coyote, and sharp-tailed grouse. Early morning and late afternoon scouting along the East River Road near the area yields sightings of pronghorn and mule deer. The Forest Service manages portions of the area under a "Scenic High" integrity objective to maintain intact landscape character. The roadless condition preserves the visual integrity of the badlands; roads and associated development would degrade the geological vistas and wildlife viewing opportunities that make this area valuable for photography.