Hoodoo

The Hoodoo roadless area encompasses 153,868 acres of subalpine terrain in the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest along the Bitterroot Range. Elevations range from Hoodoo Pass at 5,720 feet to Rhodes Peak at 7,930 feet, with prominent summits including Blacklead Mountain, Williams Peak, and Schley Mountain. The landscape drains to the Middle Fork Kelly Creek, a major headwater system that feeds Kelly Creek in the Clearwater River watershed. Water originates across high ridges and flows through named drainages including Cayuse Creek, Hoodoo Creek, Toboggan Creek, Goose Creek, and Shell Creek, creating a network of cold-water streams that support bull trout (Salvelinus confluentus) populations in critical habitat.

Forest composition shifts with elevation and moisture. At higher elevations, subalpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa) and mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana) dominate, with common beargrass (Xerophyllum tenax) carpeting the understory in open stands. Whitebark pine (Pinus albicaulis), the federally threatened species, occupies exposed ridges and upper slopes alongside Geyer's sedge (Carex geyeri). Lower elevations and moister aspects support Engelmann spruce (Picea engelmannii) mixed with subalpine fir, where grouse whortleberry (Vaccinium scoparium) forms the shrub layer. Sitka alder (Alnus viridis ssp. sinuata) shrublands occur in avalanche paths and wet draws. Alpine meadows support specialized communities including smooth woodrush (Luzula hitchcockii) and Brewer's miterwort (Mitella breweri), along with cat's ear (Calochortus elegans), a vulnerable species (IUCN).

Large carnivores structure the food web across multiple scales. The federally threatened Canada lynx hunts snowshoe hares through dense spruce-fir forests, while the federally threatened grizzly bear (Ursus arctos horribilis) forages on roots, berries, and ungulates across open meadows and forest edges. Gray wolves prey on elk (Cervus canadensis) and moose (Alces alces) in the lower drainages. The federally threatened North American wolverine (Gulo gulo luscus) ranges across high ridges and talus fields. Mountain goats inhabit steep rocky terrain above treeline. In streams, bull trout occupy cold headwater reaches where they feed on aquatic invertebrates and smaller fish, while westslope cutthroat trout (Oncorhynchus lewisi) inhabit tributary creeks. The federally threatened yellow-billed cuckoo (Coccyzus americanus) nests in riparian willows along lower creek valleys. Suckley's cuckoo bumble bee, proposed for federal endangered status, pollinates alpine wildflowers in high meadows.

A person traveling through Hoodoo experiences distinct ecological transitions. Following Kelly Creek upstream from lower elevations, the forest darkens as spruce and fir close in, their canopy muffling sound until the creek's flow becomes the dominant acoustic presence. As elevation increases and the creek narrows, the forest opens into subalpine parkland where beargrass creates pale understory openings between scattered conifers. Crossing into Hoodoo Meadows, the landscape opens further—treeline recedes, views extend across the Bitterroot Range, and the understory shifts to low herbaceous plants and sedges. On exposed ridges like Pollock Ridge and around Cache Saddle, whitebark pines stand isolated against wind, their gnarled forms marking the upper forest boundary. The transition from dense forest to open ridge happens over short distances, each zone supporting its own community of plants and the animals that depend on them.

The Nez Perce (Nimíipuu) are the primary historical inhabitants of the lands now encompassing the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest. Their ancestral territory extended from the Bitterroot Mountains in the east to the Blue Mountains in the west, covering approximately seventeen million acres across present-day Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Washington. The Hoodoo area contains historical travel routes used for millennia, including ancient Nez Perce trails such as the Lolo Trail (Northern Nez Perce Trail) and various connecting routes used to reach buffalo hunting grounds in Montana. The Nez Perce referred to these routes as Khusahna Ishkit (buffalo trails). The Forest Service identifies thousands of known archaeological and historical sites across the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest, reflecting over ten thousand years of continuous Indigenous use. Indigenous groups conducted a seasonal round of resource gathering in the area, including pursuit of mountain goats, elk, deer, and bear; utilization of the headwaters of the North Fork Clearwater and Palouse Rivers for native trout and other fish; and harvesting of camas, biscuitroot, and medicinal herbs in the high meadows and river valleys. The Coeur d'Alene (Schitsu'umsh) Tribe historically occupied nearly five million acres of north Idaho, eastern Washington, and western Montana, overlapping portions of this region. Under the Treaty of 1855, the Nez Perce reserved rights to hunt, fish, and gather on open and unclaimed lands within their ancestral territories, which includes the Hoodoo roadless area. The Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes similarly reserved such rights under the Hellgate Treaty of 1855.

In 1805 and 1806, the Corps of Discovery of the Lewis and Clark Expedition traveled through the rugged terrain of the Lolo Trail, which borders the region, relying on Nez Perce people for survival during their passage through the Bitterroot Mountains. In the late nineteenth century, beginning around 1884, the Palouse Mining Company and others filed for extensive water rights in the Hoodoo district to build ditch systems for hydraulic mining. Placer mining for gold occurred in several gulches in the Hoodoo Mining District, including Hoodoo, Greenhorn, California, and White Pine Gulches, historically centered on the headwaters of the Palouse River in northeastern Latah County. The only major hardrock mine in the immediate vicinity was located on Mizpah Creek, east of the primary placer drainages. While the Hoodoo Roadless Area itself is defined by its lack of permanent roads, the surrounding Clearwater National Forest was subject to one of the most ambitious logging programs in U.S. Forest Service history after World War II. The town of Headquarters served as a major industrial hub for Potlatch Forests, Inc. logging operations in the Clearwater basin.

The area is the epicenter of the 1910 "Big Blowup" (also known as the Great Fire of 1910), which incinerated three million acres across North Idaho and Western Montana in just two days. Following this fire, the Clearwater National Forest was split in 1911 to create the Selway National Forest, headquartered in Kooskia, to improve management efficiency.

The Nez Perce and Clearwater National Forests were both established on July 1, 1908, by the U.S. Forest Service, following the Executive Order and Proclamation system of the early twentieth century. Both forests were primarily carved out of the massive Bitterroot Forest Reserve, established by Presidential Proclamation on February 22, 1897. The Nez Perce National Forest was formed from parts of the Bitterroot and Weiser National Forests. Following administrative reorganizations, the Selway National Forest was discontinued on October 29, 1934, and its lands were divided between the Nez Perce and Clearwater National Forests. On July 1, 1956, the Moose Creek District was transferred to the Nez Perce National Forest, while the area north of the Middle Fork and the Lochsa drainage was moved to the Clearwater National Forest. The Powell District was transferred from the Lolo National Forest to the Clearwater in 1961. The Nez Perce and Clearwater National Forests were administratively combined in 2012 to create the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest. The Hoodoo roadless area, also known as the Great Burn, is a 153,868-acre Inventoried Roadless Area within this combined forest, located along the Idaho-Montana border. In 2025, a new land management plan designated approximately 108,276 acres of the Hoodoo Roadless Area as recommended wilderness, a reduction of roughly 40,000 acres from previous proposals to allow for motorized and mechanized recreation near Hoodoo Pass and Blacklead Mountain.

Vital Resources Protected

Headwater Protection for Federally Threatened Bull Trout

The Hoodoo area contains the headwaters of Kelly Creek, Cayuse Creek, and other tributaries that form critical spawning and rearing habitat for bull trout (Salvelinus confluentus), a federally threatened species with designated critical habitat in this drainage. These high-elevation streams maintain the cold water temperatures and clean spawning substrates that bull trout require for reproduction. The roadless condition preserves the intact riparian forest—dominated by subalpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa) and mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana)—that shades these streams and prevents the temperature increases that would stress or kill developing trout eggs and juveniles.

Winter Denning Habitat for Federally Threatened Wolverines

The Hoodoo area contains 52% of the maternal denning habitat for North American wolverines (Gulo gulo luscus) on the Clearwater side of the forest, making it irreplaceable for the species' recovery in the Northern Rockies. Wolverines den under deep snowpack in subalpine meadows and high-elevation terrain—particularly in areas like Hoodoo Meadows and around peaks above 7,300 feet—where they are insulated from disturbance during the critical winter denning and kit-rearing period. The roadless condition prevents the human presence and noise associated with winter motorized recreation that would cause pregnant females to abandon dens, resulting in pup mortality.

Elevational Connectivity for Grizzly Bear Recolonization

The Hoodoo area's unfragmented terrain spanning from lower-elevation forests to subalpine ridges above 7,900 feet provides essential movement corridors for grizzly bears (Ursus arctos horribilis), a federally threatened species recolonizing the Bitterroot Ecosystem Recovery Area. Grizzlies require continuous habitat to move between seasonal food sources—spring vegetation in lower drainages, summer berries in subalpine zones, and fall whitebark pine nuts in high-elevation stands. Road construction would fragment this elevational gradient, isolating bears in smaller patches and preventing the long-distance movements necessary for genetic exchange between recovering populations.

Whitebark Pine Refuge in a Warming Climate

The Hoodoo area supports stands of whitebark pine (Pinus albicaulis), a federally threatened species, within the Pinus albicaulis / Carex geyeri plant association at high elevations where cooler temperatures and persistent snowpack currently limit the spread of mountain pine beetle and white pine blister rust—the two primary threats to the species. These high-elevation refugia are critical for whitebark pine survival as climate change shifts suitable habitat upslope; the roadless condition prevents the canopy opening and edge effects from road construction that would expose remaining trees to beetle infestation and disease.

Threats from Road Construction

Stream Sedimentation and Temperature Increase from Slope Disturbance

Road construction on the steep terrain of the Hoodoo area—with elevations ranging from subalpine valleys to peaks above 7,900 feet—would require extensive cut slopes and fill placement that expose bare soil to erosion. Runoff from these disturbed slopes would deliver fine sediment into the headwater streams that support bull trout critical habitat, smothering the clean gravel spawning beds that trout eggs require for successful incubation. Simultaneously, removal of the riparian forest canopy along road corridors would eliminate shade, causing stream water temperatures to rise; even small temperature increases in already cold headwater streams can prevent bull trout eggs from developing and cause physiological stress to juveniles.

Wolverine Den Abandonment from Winter Recreation Access

Road construction into the subalpine terrain would provide access for snowmobile and mountain bike routes into areas currently protected by roadlessness, particularly around Hoodoo Pass and high-elevation meadows where wolverines den. Pregnant females denning under the snowpack are extremely sensitive to disturbance; the noise, vibration, and human presence associated with winter motorized recreation would cause denning females to abandon their dens and pups, resulting in direct mortality of kits during the critical denning season. Because wolverines have low reproductive rates and the Hoodoo area contains half of the region's maternal denning habitat, loss of even a small number of denning females would measurably reduce the species' recovery trajectory.

Habitat Fragmentation Breaking Grizzly Bear Movement Corridors

Road construction would divide the continuous subalpine and forest habitat into smaller, isolated patches separated by corridors of human activity and infrastructure. Grizzly bears attempting to move between seasonal food sources or between the Bitterroot and Northern Continental Divide recovery zones would be forced to cross roads, increasing vehicle strikes and human-bear conflicts that result in bear mortality. The fragmentation would also reduce the effective size of available habitat, preventing the long-distance movements and genetic exchange between populations that are essential for recovery of a federally threatened species with a small population size.

Canopy Opening and Edge Effects Accelerating Whitebark Pine Decline

Road construction and associated clearing would create forest edges and canopy gaps in the high-elevation whitebark pine stands, increasing solar exposure and wind stress on remaining trees. These edge effects create warmer, drier microhabitats that favor mountain pine beetle reproduction and reduce the cool, moist conditions that limit white pine blister rust spread. The combination of increased beetle activity and disease pressure in a warming climate would accelerate mortality in the very refugial populations that represent the species' best chance for persistence as suitable habitat shifts upslope.

The Hoodoo Roadless Area encompasses 153,868 acres of subalpine terrain in the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest, centered on the Bitterroot Range divide between Idaho and Montana. The area's roadless condition supports a range of backcountry recreation that depends on the absence of motorized access and road infrastructure.

Hiking and Horseback Riding

The Stateline Trail (738), a 20.7-mile mainline route, follows the Idaho-Montana border along high ridges and provides access to approximately 20 alpine lakes scattered along the divide. From Fish Lake Trailhead northward to Goose Lake, the trail is moderately difficult and offers expansive views into both states. The West Fork Fish Creek Trail (101), a 10.2-mile route, traverses a lush forest environment, while the Straight Creek Trail (99) at 7.9 miles features terraced waterfalls and drier conditions. Shorter day hikes include Emerald Lake (0.6 miles), Surveyor Lake (0.4 miles), and Saint Patrick Peak Summit (0.5 miles). The Siamese Lake Loop connects West Fork Fish Creek, Lower Siamese Lake (3.3 miles), and Straight Creek, passing through elk meadows and larch stands at Chilcoot Pass. The Kelly Creek Loop exceeds 50 miles and traverses the Great Burn interior. Primary trailheads are located at Fish Lake, Schley Mountain, Hoodoo Pass, Clearwater Crossing, and Cache Creek. Campgrounds at Fish Lake Camp, Kelly Creek Camp, Clearwater Crossing, and Cedars Campground provide base access. Horses are permitted on most trails; the Stateline Trail (738) is designated to accommodate both hikers and mechanized use (mountain bikes). Hikers, bikers, and riders should observe standard trail etiquette: bicyclists yield to hikers and horses; hikers yield to horses.

Hunting

The Hoodoo area lies within the Lolo Elk Zone, primarily in Game Management Unit 10 (Clearwater region). Elk seasons in Unit 10 typically run August 30 to October 9 (A Tag) or October 10 to November 3 (B Tag). The area supports elk, mule deer, white-tailed deer, black bear, mountain lion, and wolf. A native mountain goat herd inhabits Blacklead Mountain, though numbers have declined significantly. Three species of forest grouse—Dusky, Ruffed, and Spruce Grouse—are present in the forested portions. The terrain of steep slopes, dark timber, and high-elevation subalpine basins provides security cover for mature game. Hoodoo Pass (5,720 ft), Blacklead Mountain, the Stateline Trail, Pollock Ridge, and Cache Saddle serve as primary access points and navigation features for hunters. The area is a key corridor for grizzly bear recolonization in the Bitterroot Ecosystem Recovery Area. Mandatory reporting is required within 10 days of harvesting elk, deer, or mountain goats. Black bear hunters must complete a bear identification course before hunting. Mountain lion season is year-round statewide. Wolf trapping seasons open September 10.

Fishing

Kelly Creek is a blue-ribbon fishery supporting native Westslope Cutthroat Trout and Bull Trout, with fish typically ranging 12 to 16 inches and some reaching 20 inches. Waters are characterized as gin-clear. Catch-and-release regulations apply to all trout species in Kelly Creek; barbless hooks are required and bait is not allowed. Bull Trout are catch-and-release only statewide. Cayuse Creek, a smaller mountain stream, supports large populations of wild Westslope Cutthroat Trout (12–14 inches). Goose Creek holds Cutthroat, Brook, and Rainbow Trout. A strong October Caddis hatch occurs from mid-September through October. Access to Kelly Creek begins at Kelly Creek Camp and follows the creek upriver into the roadless interior beyond the end of road access. Hoodoo Creek, a 4.7-mile tributary of the West Fork Clear Creek, supports Cutthroat, Rainbow, and Bull Trout. Summer water temperatures can reach 60°F; spring and fall offer cooler conditions preferred by many anglers.

Paddling

Kelly Creek is a popular whitewater destination. The upper section at Clayton Creek is Class IV to IV+, followed by several miles of continuous Class III/IV, gradually easing to Class II swiftwater as it approaches Kelly Forks. Cayuse Creek, a 30-mile stream accessible only by trail, is classified as Class III–IV and noted for its remote character. The North Fork Clearwater River headwaters originate in the Hoodoo area; the section from headwaters to Kelly Creek confluence is Class III–V. The primary paddling season begins when Hoodoo Pass (Road 250) opens, typically the first week of July. Peak runoff is often over by then, leaving medium-level flows suitable for paddling. Kelly Creek requires a minimum flow of approximately 3,000 CFS; medium-low flows are 4,100–4,500 CFS. Upper sections of Kelly Creek contain significant wood hazards. Put-in points include Clayton Creek and various locations between Clayton Creek and Kelly Forks; take-out is at Kelly Forks confluence.

Photography

Rhodes Peak (7,930 ft), the high point of Clearwater County, features a large rock cairn and elaborate summit registers, offering expansive views of the Bitterroot Range. Williams Peak (7,461 ft) provides views of alpine basins and Rhodes Peak. Blacklead Mountain (7,523 ft) serves as a primary viewpoint with vistas toward the roadless interior. The Stateline Trail (738) follows the Idaho-Montana border crest, providing continuous high-elevation vistas. Goat Lake, a scenic alpine basin below Williams Peak and Rhodes Peak, reflects surrounding peaks and displays fall colors beginning in September. Fish Lake is a significant feature in the northern roadless area. Bald Mountain Lookout, a 50-foot tower on one of the highest peaks in the Hoodoo Range, offers panoramic views of rolling hills and exceptional sunrise and sunset opportunities, as well as documented stargazing conditions. The area supports wildlife photography opportunities for mountain goats, elk, moose, marmots, wolverines, and grizzly bears. Bald Mountain Lookout is specifically noted for viewing and photographing bald eagles, moose, elk, and bears.

Roadless Recreation Dependence

These recreation opportunities—backcountry hiking and horseback travel on remote ridges, fall hunting in undisturbed security cover, sight-fishing in clear native trout streams, whitewater paddling through roadless canyons, and wildlife and landscape photography in unfragmented habitat—all depend on the area's roadless condition. Road construction would fragment wildlife corridors critical to wolverines, grizzly bears, and mountain goats; introduce motorized noise and access to quiet trails and remote basins; degrade water quality in blue-ribbon fisheries; and diminish the backcountry character that defines recreation in the Hoodoo area.